All the good stuff: dry-grown and fermented under the aegis of wild yeast, a smattering of whole-bunch seasoning )25%), French oak (20% new) conferring poise, freshness and authority. As far as Barossa Shiraz goes, this is benchmark. Plush but nicely taut. A stream of boysenberry fruit and violet scents sashay to a samba of thyme, tapenade and smoked meats, nicely avoiding any sense of reduction, or clunk jam.