Discovering Germany’s Wine Heartland

In the height of summer, I embarked on an unforgettable journey through Germany’s most storied wine regions. Over four days, I roamed the lush landscapes of Baden, Mosel, and the Ahr, immersing myself in a pilgrimage dedicated to the iconic Riesling grape. This odyssey cemented a belief: to truly grasp Riesling’s depth and brilliance, one must explore its German homeland.

A World-Class Encounter: Dönnhoff

Roughly midway through my itinerary, I arrived at Dönnhoff, a legendary producer founded in 1761. Nestled near Oberhausen an der Nahe, the estate straddles the historic boundary between Bavaria and Prussia. The winery’s stunning backdrop of sandstone, weathered slate, porphyry, and melaphyre creates the perfect terroir for its celebrated wines. With 28 hectares of vineyards, predominantly Riesling, Dönnhoff is synonymous with complexity, dynamism, and purity.

My introduction to Dönnhoff came on a serene plateau overlooking the Nahe Valley. There, Anna Dönnhoff, an energetic steward of the estate, welcomed me with a glass of effervescent Riesling, the crisp bubbles a refreshing prelude to what lay ahead. The visit culminated in a profound tasting experience that showcased the 2023 vintage’s exceptional character and finesse.

Tasting the 2023 Vintage: A Revelation

The tasting unveiled Rieslings of breathtaking acidity, precision, and purity. From the ethereal Grosses Gewächs (GG) wines like Mühlenberg and Dellchen to the lively Tonschiefer, each bottle was a testament to Dönnhoff’s mastery. These wines transcended traditional metrics, delivering an emotive and philosophical experience. Determining which wines to bring home was no easy feat, but I’m thrilled to share this remarkable selection:

2023 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett | £29.00 per bottle
A stunningly elegant and vibrant Riesling Kabinett packed with white peach and honeysuckle aromas. Succulent yet crystalline.
96 Points: James Suckling

2023 Dönnhoff Tonschiefer Dry Slate Riesling | £30.00 per bottle
Intense aromas of white peaches and blossoms paired with slatey minerality. Sleek and precise.
94 Points: James Suckling

2023 Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling | £42.00 per bottle
A vibrant chorus of fruit and spice underpinned by red sandstone’s distinct spiciness and precision.

2023 Dönnhoff Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling | £74.00 per bottle
Explosive yellow peach and wild blackberry aromas with unrelenting minerality.
99 Points: James Suckling

2023 Dönnhoff Dellchen Grosses Gewächs Riesling | £83.00 per bottle
Hypnotic beauty and mind-bending concentration with staggering freshness.
100 Points: James Suckling

2023 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese Riesling | £59.00 per bottle
Radical stony minerality and racy acidity paired with a feather-light mouthfeel.
99 Points: James Suckling

2023 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Auslese Riesling | £59.00 per bottle
Terrific concentration and grace with floral honey nuances.
99 Points: James Suckling

A Toast to the Nahe’s Finest

This handpicked selection embodies the unparalleled heritage and diversity of the Nahe region. From Riesling’s crystalline elegance to its exhilarating vibrancy, these wines are a celebration of nature’s artistry and Dönnhoff’s dedication. I invite you to savour their brilliance and share in the wonder of this extraordinary vintage.

Browse the Dönnhoff range here!